Winter 2016 Feature Story: CSA Farming

Invest in fresh with a CSA share

Joyce M. Kent weighs tomatoes while working at her son’s produce booth, Kent Family Growers, at the Canton Farmer’s Market. At left is her husband David J. Kent. The Lisbon farm offers year-round CSA shares. Photo by Jason Hunter, NNY Living.

Joyce M. Kent weighs tomatoes while working at her son’s produce booth, Kent Family Growers, at the Canton Farmer’s Market. At left is her husband David J. Kent. The Lisbon farm offers year-round CSA shares. Photo by Jason Hunter, NNY Living.

By Karee Magee, NNY Living

The grocery store has long been dominated by soldier-like rows of foods while the freshest and healthiest sections on the perimeter have grown ever smaller.

As those sections have decreased, the products, especially produce, become more expensive and less fresh.

“It’s an important public health issue,” said Gloria McAdam, executive director of GardenShare, a nonprofit that helps low-income families afford locally produced food. “The lower a family’s income the more likely they’ll buy the cheapest food they can instead of the healthiest.

Options might seem slim, but a growing number of Community Supported Agriculture farms are bringing local, fresh produce back to the north country.

“It will absolutely be fresher,” Ms. McAdam said. “The average eggs from the grocery store are 45 days old.”

If shoppers buy eggs from a CSA, though, they would last longer without having to be refrigerated if they haven’t traveled far, she said.

A CSA is a partnership between a farmer and local consumers where everyone shares the risks and benefits of farming, Ms. McAdam said.

Consumers pay up front at the beginning of the growing season, usually in June, and receive weekly deliveries or pickups of produce and other items.

Dan Kent, of Kent Family Growers, a CSA in Lisbon, said being a partner isn’t as risky as it seems.

“There is really no risk,” he said. “We produce more than enough.”
Ms. McAdam said that consumers usually end up with more produce than what the payment is worth.

Each CSA offers different items with the staples mainly produce, but farms also offer cheese, eggs, beef, chicken and niche products.

“We try to give people the largest portion of each share the staples, but we offer some special items like strawberries and cantaloupe to keep it interesting,” Mr. Kent said.

The produce available changes depending on the season though. Strawberries and blueberries are available in the late spring, but items like tomatoes, potatoes, peppers and squash are available later.

Certain CSA’s, including Kent Family Growers also have a winter season running from November to March.

Mr. Kent’s farm has a high tunnel similar to a greenhouse, but passively heated, to grow winter vegetables including beets, carrots, onions and cabbage. They also freeze fresh produce like broccoli and cauliflower for the winter season.

Mr. Kent’s family produces pickles, pesto and strawberry jam as niche items for the winter season. He said his customers appreciate the CSA because it “forces them to eat vegetables.”

“I might say we’re encouraging them,” Mr. Kent said. “People are afraid of throwing away local produce. You’re going to make the extra effort to put it to use.”

GardenShare offers a program to help low-income families in St. Lawrence County to afford the CSA payment called CSA Bonus Bucks. The program pays $100 of the cost of a CSA membership.

“Every farm is different,” McAdam said. “Find the farm that is right for you and then come back to us for CSA Bucks.”

GardenShare maintains a list of CSA’s and Farmers’ Markets in St. Lawrence County on its website gardenshare.org. To find CSA’s in the Lewis and Jefferson counties check the Cornell Cooperative Extensions website at cce.cornell.edu.

Karee Magee is a magazine associate for NNY Magazines. Contact her at 661-2381 or kmagee@wdt.net.

Winter 2016: Food

Meal prep made fast and easy

 

Boo Wells

Columnist Boo Wells

Keep a few staple ingredients on hand to impress

Life moves so quickly. When my boys were babies, random
strangers would constantly approach us while we were out for a walk or at the grocery store, “Thing One” and “Thing Two” in a stroller or shopping cart, “Thing Three” in a snuggle cryovaced to my chest, and they would ooh and ahh, complimenting me on how darling the boys were (really, I’m not biased). What I remember most was the number of times they would warn “time moves quickly, enjoy every moment,” and “Your boys will grow up in a blink of an eye,” or “Enjoy them now, because before you know it, they will be grown and gone.” It was one of those things that I heard so often it began to sound like the adult voices on a Peanut’s cartoon “Wa-wa-wa-wa-wa-wa.” [Read more…]

Holiday 2015: Food

Give the gift of food this season

Boo Wells

Roasted vegetable minestrone a holiday staple

I have never had food poisoning. I realize that is a is a strange proclamation but given my mother’s unusual food safety habits or lack thereof, it is actually a miracle. As I have mentioned in previous columns, my parents entertained often. It seems like these days people don’t entertain like they did when I was growing up. My parents had dinner parties several times a month and, as a result, were asked out multiple nights a week (read: babysitters in Connecticut make bank because of social obligations). According to proper etiquette, when you were invited to a dinner or cocktail party you are then expected to reciprocate with an invitation to your next party. [Read more…]

Summer 2015: Food

Savor the sweet taste of a north country summer

Columnist Boo Wells

Columnist Boo Wells

Treat your palette to the bold freshness of spring

Summer is one of the greatest reasons for living in the north country. It is Mother Nature’s reward for surviving yet another monster of a winter. It has only been a few short months since we were surrounded by an overcast and gloomy, monochromatic world, nature’s own version of “50 Shades of Grey.” The snow just kept falling as the plow guys and shovel-strong women and men struggled to keep up. On the days that the sun actually peaked out from behind the clouds, the thermometer rarely recorded a number above zero.

Hardly a cause for celebration, we survived and it feels like winter has been over for ages. Mother Nature has some pretty clever ways of making us forget the terrible by blessing us with the awe-inspiring, just look at childbirth. If babies were not cooing bundles of adorable, nobody would go through childbirth more than once. We forget the labor pains and exhaustion, the freezing temperatures and dreary days. The alternative to this selective amnesia would be a world of only children living in Florida. Enough reminiscing about mountains of snow that were taller than your second-story window or the 10-mile walk to school — uphill both ways. Just look outside your window. Spring has spring and, at this writing, summer is hot in its heels. As memories of last winter fade they are slowly replaced with the glories of spring: digging wild ramps, planting beets and lettuce seeds, the strange way your pee smells after eating asparagus, picking rhubarb and garlic scapes and, of course, cooking freshly picked food for friends and family.

During winter, I never want to leave my house. I give homebody a whole new definition. Come spring, I never want to be in my house. If I could, I’d stay out in the garden from sun-up to sundown. I would be a very happy camper. As I putter about with my trowel and pruning shears, the reality of what to serve for dinner lurks in the recesses of my brain. I tug a weed here and there and pinch back an overzealous basil plant, keeping low to the ground, hoping not to be spotted by a hungry teenager, avoiding being dragged back to reality. When I attempt to enlist their help with gardening chores I can usually buy myself another half hour of peace in my sanctuary.

Hunger is suddenly forgotten and the need to practice an exceptionally dusty instrument becomes urgent. What to make for dinner? Something quick, something easy, something that uses some of the incredible bounty that spring has brought. I try to camouflage myself among the climbing vines and asparagus spears as the teenagers begin to circle.

“Will it ever stop snowing?” has been replaced with “Where is Mom? What’s for dinner?”

Photo by Justin Sorensen, NNY Living.

Photo by Justin Sorensen, NNY Living.

Taste of summer rice salad

Ingredients

2 cups Arborio rice
1 pound fresh asparagus, tough ends snapped off, and cut at an angle into ¼-inch pieces
2 cups frozen baby peas, thawed
1½ cups frozen Edamame beans, thawed
¼ cups finely diced celery
2 shallots, finely diced
2 Tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice more as needed
2 Tablespoons white wine vinegar
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil, more as needed
¼ cup roughly chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
¼ cup chopped chives
¼ cup roughly chopped mint
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper

Instructions

Bring a large pot of water to a boil and season with salt. Add the rice and boil until the grains are just cooked —they should be slightly al dente — about 15 minutes. Drain well and then spread the rice on a baking sheet to cool.
Bring a separate large pot of water to a boil and blanch the asparagus for 12 minutes. Have a large bowl of ice water ready, immediately submerge the asparagus in the ice bath until chilled, about 1 minute.
Remove the asparagus from the ice bath, drain well, and transfer to a bowl. Add the peas, Edamame, diced celery and all of the chopped herbs to the bowl and toss to combine.
To make the vinaigrette, combine the shallot, lemon juice, vinegar, and a pinch of salt in a small bowl. Let sit for 5 to 10 minutes. Whisk in the oil. Taste and add more salt if necessary.
Combine the rice and the vegetables and herbs in a large bowl. Season with salt and a few twists of black pepper. Drizzle the vinaigrette over the rice and toss to combine. Serve at room temperature.

Boo Wells is chef and owner of the Farm House Kitchen, a catering company and cooking school in Sackets Harbor. Contact her at sacketsfarmhousekitchen@gmail.com or visit www.thefarmhousekitchen.com.

Spring 2015: Food

Try a plant-based diet and enjoy many new surprises

Columnist Boo Wells

Columnist Boo Wells

Eat a little less meat and lots more fruits and vegetables

I have recently rejoined the real world after an eight-day visit to my past life in Breckenridge, Colo. The town where the little darlings were born and I had my very first food venture, Off the Beaten Path — A Dessert Company. [Read more…]

Winter 2015: Food

A taste of Jamaica comes home with vegetable curry

By Boo Wells

Columnist Boo Wells

Hearty family tradition continues in the north country

When I was younger, my parents and I would spend several weeks a year visiting my grandmother in the West Indies. My grandmother and step-grandfather became enamored with the English-ruled island of Jamaica after they honeymooned in the tropical paradise. [Read more…]

Watertown Farm & Craft Market ending on high note with diverse crowds

A crowd wanders through the Watertown Farm & Craft Market in fine weather Wednesday. Norm Johnston / Watertown Daily Times

A family from Seattle on Wednesday sampled flavors of tomato-garlic oil offered by Cheeky Monkey Foods, a Syracuse vendor that made its debut this season at the Watertown Farm & Craft Market.

“It’s different than anything I’ve ever tried before,” Leslie K. Martinis said. The delicacy comes from one of several vendors new this season at the popular Washington Street market, which will end its 37th season next Wednesday.

Vendors, meanwhile, said they have enjoyed business from a stream of new customers each week at the market, hosted by the Greater Watertown-North Country Chamber of Commerce. This season, the chamber expanded the number of vendor spaces from 53 to 60.

Amos Race, who runs Cheeky Monkey Foods with his wife, Leah, said he has been impressed by the diversity of customers drawn to the market because of its proximity to Fort Drum.

“It’s a good location near the base, because there’s a continuous supply of people circulating here,” Mr. Race said. “Normally at markets you get a splash at the beginning of the summer, and then it levels off. But here there’s been a constant influx of new customers.”

Illustrating that point was the Seattle family who sampled and bought tomato-garlic oil at Mr. Race’s booth on Wednesday. Mrs. Martinis was accompanied by her mother, Kathleen M. Herrin; daughter, Lauren K. Turner, whose husband is a soldier stationed at Fort Drum; and 1-year-old granddaughter, Kaydence L.

Mrs. Herrin, who shops at a farmers market north of Seattle on Whidbey Island, said the Watertown market is “much bigger and better” by comparison. “I’m seeing a lot of different things here,” she said. [Read more…]

Time to open the lid on your grill and move the kitchen outdoors

Spice up your backyard barbecue with simple seasonings [Read more…]

Dandy and plenty Devotees of dandelions see food and drink options, not pesky weeds

Master gardener Roselyn Taylor , Rodman, says dandelions are more than weeds, they can be used medicinally and in recipes. Norm Johnston / NNY Living

Master gardener Roselyn Taylor , Rodman, says dandelions are more than weeds, they can be used medicinally and in recipes. Norm Johnston / NNY Living

The yellow buttons of spring sprouting on the green coats of north country lawns quickly wear out their welcome. Now, for many people, it is time to eradicate those dandelions with an arsenal of weed killers.

But hold on, says Roselyn Taylor, a master gardener for the Cornell Cooperative Extension of Jefferson County.
In the latest Master Gardener newsletter published by the Cooperative Extension of Jefferson County, Mrs. Taylor wrote about some edible and other alternatives for the perennial flowering weed:
“The greens are used in salads, fried up as fritters, pureed into pesto and dried for tea,” she wrote.
She added that oil made from dandelion flowers can relieve arthritis. The sap from the stem of the plants can be used on warts.
“I think it’s hysterical that people have such fits over dandelions,” Mrs. Taylor said in a phone interview from her home in Rodman late last month, where she tends to her small organic farm and five horses.
Mrs. Taylor isn’t alone in her appreciation of dandelions. [Read more…]

Move over, June Cleaver, Ward has found his place in the kitchen

English muffin bread with Earl Grey tea jelly. Amanda Morrison / NNY Living

English muffin bread with Earl Grey tea jelly. Amanda Morrison / NNY Living

English muffin bread an easy-to-follow recipe for anyone [Read more…]